How to Install the Gulfcoast Robotics Heated Bed (Ender 3 / 5)
Creality 3D Printers are notorious for their warped heated beds. The Ender 3 and 5 series have it the worst, with seemingly zero quality control on what reaches the customers.
This glaring defect has made purchasing aftermarket glass almost a necessity, a band-aid solution to cover up the underlying problems. With flatness tolerances ranging anywhere from +/- 0.3mm to an upwards of 1.0mm, it’s no surprise that many of them are practically unusable.
To address this, we’ll look at how to install the Gulfcoast Robotics Heated Bed Kit. It’s equipped with a precision CNC milled aluminum build plate, powerful 24V silicone heater, and all the conveniences to make it a simple drop-in upgrade.
Disclaimer: I work at Gulfcoast Robotics and have provided feedback in the design of this product. As this is my personal website however, the thoughts and opinions shared here are entirely my own.
Purchased Parts
235x235mm Heated Bed Upgrade - $54.99
Checking Build Plate Flatness
Most of us don’t have the tools needed to measure flatness tolerances, they are expensive. The good news is, there are a couple DIY methods to figure out if your heated bed is warped.
However, testing while it’s installed on the 3D Printer won’t give us accurate results. Tension on the corners from the bed leveling screws can heavily skew the shape. As such, make sure to remove it from the machine before trying these out.
Ruler Method
You probably have a standard 12″ ruler somewhere nearby, wood or metal will work. Since the edges of a ruler are fairly straight, we can lay it across the surface and check for high or low spots.
Place a light behind the ruler, look from the front (eye level with the bed) and see if any light is visible.
Countertop Method
Kitchen and bathroom countertops are often made from granite, marble or some sort of stone. These should be extremely flat and will serve well as a reference point for comparisons.
Lay the bed face down on the counter, then press on various spots to see if there is any flex or wobbles.
These aren’t perfect tests by any means, but they are quick and dirty checks that anyone can do. For the most part, they will give us a reasonably good idea if the build plate is anything less than flat.
Installation
To get started, we first need to remove the original heated bed. Loosen the thumb wheels until they fall off, then set these and the leveling springs aside. Carefully lift the bed up from the Y axis and place it behind the 3D Printer for now.
Next we need to disconnect the bed from the board. Open the electronics case by removing the (3) hex screws on top, two in the front corners and one in the middle rear. With these out, you can lift the lid and set it aside, taking care not to stress the cooling fan wires.
The bed’s (2) power cables are...
