88-89 Prix 3-Piece AM/FM/Cassette/EQ

Description: To connect to the external amplifier, use pins 8 and 9 from the 15-pin connector, which are identified as brown/white and dark green/white. Circuits 367 and 368 should be referenced. The brown/white wire was clipped and stripped at the ends, and on the amplifier side, the red wire from the jack was soldered to this wire, ensuring to use shrink wrap. On the cassette side, the green wire was soldered to the corresponding side after stripping it. The black wire from the jack was then soldered on the amplifier side, while the white wire was soldered on the cassette side. A modification to the radio circuit of the amplifier may be considered, involving the creation of a wire harness with Molex connectors to facilitate the routing of wires through the existing harness ducting to the area behind the glovebox. This would enable the jack to be mounted in the cassette/equalizer unit, providing a plug-and-play interface and allowing for easy removal of components if necessary. A switch was wired to interrupt the T-On circuit when off (Radio On) and connect it to +12V power when on (Tape/Aux On). This modification was necessary to bypass a relay that activates the radio when a cassette is inserted or removed. Leaving the T-On wire connected after powering it may prevent the radio from turning back on until the wire is clipped or a cassette is cycled. The switch must be activated before playing a cassette since the internal relay has been bypassed. The cassette player module is designed without schematics, requiring replacement through Delco service. Disassembly of the CD unit has been attempted, but reassembly poses challenges due to the complexity of the components.

The schematic design for the external amplifier connection involves a 15-pin connector with specific attention to pins 8 and 9, which are crucial for establishing the audio signal pathways. The brown/white wire serves as a signal line, while the dark green/white wire may function as a ground or return path, depending on the specific circuit design. The soldering process requires precision, ensuring that connections are secure and insulated with shrink wrap to prevent short circuits.

When considering the modification to the radio circuit, the integration of a Molex connector system provides a modular approach, allowing for easier maintenance and upgrades in the future. The routing of wires through existing harness ducting not only minimizes clutter but also protects the wires from damage. The switch that interrupts the T-On circuit is a critical component of this design, as it allows the user to control the power state of the amplifier without relying on the cassette mechanism, which may be prone to failure.

The bypassing of the internal relay presents a unique challenge, as it alters the expected operation of the radio. The necessity of manually activating the switch before playing a cassette indicates a shift in user interaction with the device. This modification, while functional, requires careful consideration of user experience and operational convenience.

In terms of maintaining and servicing the cassette player and CD unit, the lack of accessible schematics complicates repairs. The design appears to prioritize replacement over repair, which can be frustrating for users attempting to perform their own maintenance. The complexity of reassembly, particularly for the CD unit, underscores the need for careful documentation during disassembly, as any oversight could hinder the reassembly process. Overall, the approach taken in this project reflects a balance between customization and the inherent limitations of the existing electronic components.Taking the wiring going to the external amp, in the 15 pin connector you will want pins 8 and 9. I believe they are brown/white and dark green/white looking at the thread in the link you posted. Circuits 367 and 368. Then I clipped and stripped the brown/white wire at the clipped ends, Then on the amp side I soldered the RED wire from the jack to this wire don`t forget the shrink wrap, on the cassette side, I soldered the GREEN wire to this side. On the green/wire wire, I clipped and stripped that. On the amp side I soldered the BLACK wire from the jack and on the cassette side I soldered the WHITE wire. "Eh, ya know somethin` Jimmy. It`s one thing to understand how to bolt aftermarket parts to your car. It`s another thing entirely (opens exhaust on GN) to understand how they all. work. together!" I may abandon that approach entirely though. I may tap directly into the radio circuit of the amp this time and make a wire harness using molex connectors so I can run a length of wire through the existing harness ducting into the area behind the glovebox.

That would allow me to have the jack mounted in the cassette/eq unit, have a simple plug and go interface, and allow me to remove either component (if ever required) without a big hassle. To avoid the use of a blank cassette tape, I wired in a wired a switch to have the T-On circuit broken when off (Radio On) and have T-On connected and provided with +12v Power when on.

(Tape/Aux On). The reason for having to actually clip the T-on wire is because this method seems to bypass some relay that is used to turn the radio on/off when a cassette is removed/inserted. If you leave the T-on wire connected after giving it power then the radio will not come back on until you clip the wire.

or I possibly until you insert and then remove a cassette tape to force the relay to cycle (It occurs to me that I never actually tried this). The only problem I can think of is that the switch is now required to be flipped before a cassette tape can be played, because the internal relay has been bypassed, but that`s fine by me.

Yeah, the guy who ran that website was kindof a jerk. I am glad I stocked up on all the manuals I could justify buying while I still could. I swear I`ll get them imaged eventually. The cassette player module itself was the same way in the TGP stereos. no schematics and only "serviceable" by sending the module to Delco for replacement. Cannot even replace the belts as far as I could tell. I tore one down as far as I was comfortable and it got me nowhere. If I had ripped it apart far enough to even just replace the belts I don`t know that reassembly would have been possible by anyone who was not a swiss watchsmith or had 8 arms or something. i actually have disassembled 90% of the CD unit. opened up the amp, inspected everything, new heatsink compound, closed it back up, dealt with the little main controller board, CD unit taken apart to the point of removed laser/worm gear stuff.

putting it back together requires memory/photos and small hand movements, neither of which i`m that great at, but it`s getting there. since i apparently can`t service the CD portion myself(we`ll see about that), i`m trying to figure out where the hell all of the ebay units are getting "new" CD control boards from.